Day 21/22 Semana in Seville

Merida/Seville

Merida’s famed Roman ruins date back to the 1st century BC and we stop there on our way to Seville. The capital of Lusitania of Roman Spain it has a drama theatre from 16bc, now reconstructed with fibreglass steps. No fields of spare parts like we saw in Turkey. The oldest theatre festival in Spain is still held here today.

The Amphitheatre for fights dates to 8bc. Even then there was merchandising of your favourite gladiator so it was worth keeping them rather than killing any off each performance. 

Seville is the capital of Andalusia originally founded by the Phoenicians as a trades port. We’ve lucked out again as it’s Holy Week, Semana Santa, the week leading up to Easter. Each night different brotherhoods, local churches, parade their Pasos, a float with a sculpture of a biblical scene, through the streets. The penitents, dressed in robes, conical hats and with their faces covered lead the procession with a band playing mournful music. Huge crowds gather and tonight we’re 30 deep at an intersection to gain a glimpse of what’s happening.  

This morning we meet Sandra from Seville, our local guide. As we walk the city we learn that Triana was the birthplace of flamenco, visit the Spain square built for the World Fair of 1929, recognisable as a set for Star Wars. There’s a fish market designed by Eiffel and a yellow and white bullring. 

Seville was settled by the Romans, then taken over by the Visigoths and known as the House of Vandals, leading to Andalusia. The 16/17 century became a golden age as all USA imports came through Seville, a major stop after rounding the Cape of Good Hope, and an opportunity for sailors to let their hair down. 

Sandra tells us that real tango is for professionals but anyone can dance the easy version after a couple of Spanish sherries. The old tobacco factory was the inspiration for Bizet to write Carmen with 4000 gipsy women working here, and we’re surprised at the number of operas with a Spanish theme. 

The old Jewish quarter was originally built by moors then resettled by the Jews so they could be near the palace, advising the royal family. 

We see the Hidalga tower, originally a minaret for the mosque, now bell tower for the cathedral, which claims to have 150g of Columbus buried here. Proverbs 18 adorns the tower and statues of Peter and Paul stand outside the cathedral.